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This morning we ventured out to Zoo Berlin on the U-Bahn. Unlike yesterday, our somewhat drab neighborhood seemed more alive with the hustle and bustle of a weekday morning. Likewise, the zoo—with parents and kids, school groups, etc.—was also very vibrant and quite enjoyable. Although rain was expected later in the day, the morning was perfect: sunny and mild.

While I’ve only been to maybe a dozen zoos, Zoo Berlin has to be up near the top. I say this for two reasons. First, it’s aesthetically appealing, as it’s both park-like and cohesive in design. Second, there’s an intimacy with the animals that doesn’t seem to exist elsewhere. While neither the animals nor the people are in any danger from each other (save for humans acting really stupid), there seemed to be few unnecessary barriers and the animals were generally quite close to the onlookers. Highlights included the panda and polar bears, as well as the kid’s petting zoo (especially the seemingly old and blind white goat) and playground (which included this awesome, mechanized toddler-sized excavating equipment).

A distinguished gentleman of a goat...

A distinguished gentleman of a goat...

After the zoo, we grabbed lunch and returned to the hotel. Libby and Emerson took a nap. Mom went out exploring more of the city. And, I thought about a nap but opted to go out as well. I headed up to Unter der Linden and then cut across to Alexenderplatz. In the process, I passed by the Berlin Cathedral, famous TV tower, the ‘red’ town hall (named for the color of the brick’s not as a sort of Communist nod), as well as a few other statues, museums, and churches. Along the way, there were frequent construction projects, which seem to typify this still developing/evolving city.

Berlin in a nutshell: distinguished and old; Soviet-era remnants, funky new buildings, and ongoing (re-)construction...

Berlin in a nutshell: distinguished and old; Soviet-era remnants, funky new buildings, and ongoing (re-)construction...

I left Alexanderplatz via Karl-Marx-Allee, which was originally named “Stalinallee” and contained a series of mostly updated Soviet-style apartments that were originally built as a showpiece of the glories of Socialism. Following my trip down Communist Lane, I meandered my way back to the hotel. All in all, I like the city more… it’s growing on me.

We reconvened for dinner a little after 5:00pm. Before eating, we headed over to see the site of the famous “Checkpoint Charlie” that served as a crossing point between the American sector of West Berlin and the Soviet sector of East Berlin. Ironically, a McDonald’s (amongst other Capitalist symbols) now overlooks the location as if to say “take that, you Commie pinkos!”

For dinner, we went to a Bavarian restaurant (carpe wurstum!) for dinner on the Gendarmenmarkt called “Augustiner am Gendarmenmarkt.” It was more upscale than a traditional beer hall with good quality food and reasonable prices. I wouldn’t hesitate to eat there again and would recommend it to anyone looking for Germanic (Bavarian) fare.

Tomorrow is out last (half) day in Berlin.

Then we’re off to London for our homeward flight on Wednesday morning.

We departed Krakow a little after 8am and (aside from rest stops and a brief detour into Wroclaw, Poland) drove the ~600km straight through arriving at our hotel around 2pm. A four-to-six lane highway (starting as the A4 in Krakow) runs directly to Berlin, making the drive very easy. However, while the countryside is attractive enough (farms and forests), it’s a relatively uninteresting stretch of flat road as it lacked the vistas afforded by earlier segments of this trip.

Our hotel—a Marriott in the city center—is located in a residential area in the former East Berlin, a few blocks south of Unter Den Linden. As we arrived early, we had time to explore the city yesterday, walking a fairly large rectangular pattern north to Unter Den Linden (via Gendarmenmarkt), over to the Brandenburger Tor, followed by a slight detour to the magnificent Reichstag building, cutting across Tiergarten (which was fortified as a Euro 2012 Fan Zone), visiting Potsdam Platz (where we stopped for dinner), and back down Leipziger Strasse to our hotel.

The impressive Reichstag...

The impressive Reichstag...

Our first impression of Berlin? Meh… it’s okay.

Not being one who’s ever overly impressed by the “big sights” (pyramids at Giza? meh, too), seeing something like the Brandenburg Gate in person is enjoyable, but it doesn’t make the experience. Instead, I find the overall vibe/feel of a place—its architecture and environment—to be more important. And, Berlin (at least what I’ve seen of it) isn’t wildly appealing. Indeed, it’s sort of what I expected Eastern Europe—big cities in former Communist countries—to look like before visiting Prague, Budapest, etc. years ago.

Now my vision is finally realized in Berlin. While some of the modern architecture is arresting, there are also a lot of unattractive (presumably GDR-era) apartment blocks, as well as more recent attempts at contemporary and/or minimalist aesthetics that have failed to deliver (as it’s a fine line between ‘elegant simplicity’ and ‘stark brutality’). Given the history of Berlin, my criticism probably isn’t fair. It’s just that the city seems to be neither as spectacularly modern as Dubai nor as charmingly reconstructed as Munich.

Let’s see if our impressions change tomorrow.

In order to make the most of our day and beat the expected heat (near 90 degrees), we started our explorations shortly after 8am. En route to our first stop, Libby picked up the most delightful iced coffee… like a Starbucks Frappuccino but better. We then traversed the historic core of the city in order to begin Rick Steves’s walking tour of the Old Town following the Royal Route through town to Wawel, the hilltop site of Poland’s most sacred cathedral.

Our walking tour began just outside of Florianska Gate in the Planty (a green park—built where the fortifications of the city once stood—that surrounds much of the Old Town… our hotel, overlooks part of the Planty on the other side of town). Passing through the gate, we walked toward the main square, explored it in more detail, and then headed down Ul. Grodzka toward Wawel. Along the way, we stopped into the Church of Saints Peter and Paul and its next door neighbor, the Church of St. Andrew (intimate in scale, but very impressive). We then hiked up the hill to Wawel for an impressive view of the Vistula River, explored the castle grounds, and visited Wawel Cathedral. For me, the most striking item was a small display on the altar containing a vial of Blessed Pope John Paul II’s blood—a kind of modern-day relic—that presumably will be venerated by the faithful for perhaps hundreds of years to come (much like people stand around looking at parts of old Saint So-and-So, fragments of the Cross, or whatever today). Krakow really is the “Rome of the North” (and often cited as the most Catholic city in Europe’s most Catholic country). As a retired Catholic, I felt very much at home. :-)

Wavel Cathedral

Wavel Cathedral

After our visit to Wawel, we returned to our hotel for a quick pit stop for Emerson (the benefit of having a really good location) and then headed back to the main square to visit St. Mary’s Basilica, which had been closed earlier in the day for church services. I must confess—having seen a lot of churches that all sort of blend into one another—that “there’s something about St. Mary’s” that I really liked. Sure, it’s a Gothic masterpiece on the outside. But, the interior of the church had a certain joyfulness and vitality lacking in so many of Europe’s great churches. Indeed, I was somewhat reminded (especially by the ceiling) of the beautiful mosques that we visited in the Middle East this year. More celebratory than somber: seems like a better way to honor God.

Interior of St. Mary's Basilica

Interior of St. Mary's Basilica

After the church, we had lunch at a wood-fired pizzeria. The pizza—as all food in Krakow seems to be—was excellent and affordable (our sit-down lunch, including drinks and tip, was less than $20 for the four of us). We then strolled back to our hotel for Emerson’s afternoon nap while Mom headed out to explore more of the city.

We regrouped in the late afternoon for some souvenir shopping before heading to dinner. We ate at a place called Marmolada, which provided another good meal at a very good price (though not up to Miod Malina’s level of excellence). After dinner, we had some delicious ice cream (at $0.50 per scoop) before returning to the hotel. Later tonight, I plan to head back out to try some night photography.

There’s much to do in and around Krakow and this trip has only scratched the surface. Moreover, we’ve found that we really like Poland and would like to explore more of this country. As such, we’ll add Poland to our ‘return visit’ short list (which, I must confess, is ironically rather long).

Tomorrow we drive back to Germany to spend our last couple of days on the continent in Berlin before heading back to London and then on to home.

Update: I was so pleased with the results from my little Cannon S100 Point-and-Shoot and a tiny Joby GorillaPod, that I came back to the hotel and revised today’s post to include a sample:

day15_night1

day15_night2

Today we drove from Vienna (departing around 8:30am) to Krakow (arriving around 4:30pm). The route took us across the eastern side (Moravia) of the Czech Republic. Originally, we’d intended to stop in Moravsky Krumlov the long-standing home of Alfons Mucha’s Slavic Epic series of paintings. However, they’ve been moved to Prague, which is probably a better home and an excuse for us to return there too. :-) Instead, we stopped in Olomouc—pretty well off of the tourist path and known for the socialist clock (actually an astronomical clock in a Socialist Realist style) that adorns its town hall—for a brief visit and lunch. The visit was especially brief—about an hour—as we were (I think) parked illegally due to my inability to figure out where/how to pay for my parking spot.

Olomouc's Socialist Realist astronomical clock

Olomouc's Socialist Realist astronomical clock

The onward drive to Poland was slowed down by road work and at one point a sudden and inexplicable closing of the highway near Ostrava just before reaching Poland. This caused much confusion to the GPS unit, which wanted to keep routing me back to the aforementioned closed section of highway. For a while, I tried just ‘driving toward Poland’ hoping this would cause the recalculation to ‘catch on.’ No such luck. So, I eventually just stopped the car and added a waypoint inside of Poland and away from the non-existent highway. All told, I think the detour added 30 or so minutes to our travel time. This was only the second time that the GPS (briefly) failed us on the trip, and it’s really made the journey virtually stress free (especially as I’d pre-programmed all of the key destinations in the “favorites” list before our departure from home).

We’re staying at another Radisson Blu in the heart of Krakow. It’s a fine hotel choice in a great city. While we didn’t have a chance to explore too much of the town yet, what we’ve seen we really like! And, we don’t regret for a single moment the decision to come here (though it involves two fairly lengthy driving days for us). It’s full of character and very beautiful. We did manage to make it to the swoon-worthy Main Market Square.

Libby and Emerson in Krakow...

Libby and Emerson in Krakow...

We also had what might just be the single best meal I’ve ever eaten in Europe… and for an amazingly low price. We happened upon a place called Miod Malina (“Honey Raspberry”) that’s seemingly recommended in all of the guidebooks and generally requires reservations. We lucked out and grabbed a table for four (the advantages of eating early on toddler time) before the crush of patrons really started. The restaurant does both Polish and Italian dishes (sometimes as a fusion) remarkably well. I won’t belabor with details but highlights included: gorgonzola, pear, and cranberry crostini, tomato soup w/ dumplings (out of this world good—Emerson shared this with me), potato pancakes with meat stew, meat stuffed dumplings with caramelized onions, and a warm Krakow-style cheesecake (somewhat akin to New York-style with a more assertive/tangy cheese flavor). Amazingly, we had all of this food (plus the stuff I didn’t mention)… basically starters, mains, and desserts for everyone plus drinks for about $55 (with tip). That’s $55 total, not per person… for one of the best and more expensive restaurants in town. Clearly, Scandinavia this is not… :-)

Raspberry Panna Cotta at Miod Malina ("Honey Raspberry")... excellent food and service!

Raspberry Panna Cotta at Miod Malina... excellent food and service!

We’re looking forward to tomorrow!

Today’s box score: +1 country (Poland); +2 for Emerson!

Feeling better this morning, I popped out early to the local bakery to pick up coffees and breakfast. We then all bundled into the car and headed for Hungary. Hungary? Yes, Hungary… it turns out that you can get from Vienna to Bratislava (in Slovakia) by a slightly longer route through Hungary. So, we took it (though Libby and I have been to that country before), because we could! Even with the detour, we made it in about an hour.

What a worthwhile place to visit! While the historic city center of Bratislava is diminutive in scale and lacks ‘major’ sights per se, we all found it utterly charming. It’s smartly restored, slightly arty, utterly accessible, not overly crowded, and full of friendly locals. We especially enjoyed the numerous statues that dotted the town, which added a note of whimsy to the classic facades. In short: Bratislava is a winner. I’d highly recommend it as a day trip from Wien or as a stop between Budapest and Vienna. We followed Rick Steves’s self-guided walking tour of Bratislava and added a few shopping stops to pick up souvenirs. Libby was especially taken by a silver and garnet ring, which she now owns.

Main Square -- Bratislava

Main Square -- Bratislava

Statues dot Bratislava's historic center...

Statues dot Bratislava's historic center...

For my part, I was struck by some images that I happened to notice inside of a little café near the town’s main square. It turns out that the café was run by a non-profit service organization that helps the intellectually challenged. The art work (made out of woven strips of construction paper to form multi-colored geometric patterns) was created by members of the organization as well and was for sale in the shop (at 5 euros, including frame and handmade gift bag). I found the people delightful in the café and the entire project to be very touching. The staff was clearly pleased to have sold their work, and I’ve probably never been happier spending ~$6.50 in my life.

My art purchase in Bratislava...

My 'art' purchase in Bratislava...

After our successful morning, we returned to Vienna by 1:00. We grabbed lunch and took a nap. In the late afternoon, we headed to the Prater (a large public park near our hotel that’s very popular with the locals), which includes a Tivoli-style amusement park. We took a ride on a miniature train throughout the park, enjoyed a number of other amusements (including a traditional horse-drawn carousel), and wandered around the grounds enjoying the atmosphere. We then found a promising looking (and packed with locals) biergarten at which we enjoyed a tremendously awesome and insanely cheap (for Europe) dinner of bratwursts (with the most heavenly senf), frankfurters (for Emerson), potato salad, tomato salad, fresh bread, and drinks.

Fun at the Prater...

Fun at the Prater...

Pilot Emerson... ready for take-off!

Pilot Emerson... ready for take-off!

We had ice cream—a sweet ending for a sweet day—as we walked through the park back to our hotel.

Tomorrow we depart Austria for Poland via the Czech Republic.

Today’s box score: +1 country (Slovakia)… +2 for Emerson!

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